Ana səhifə

Instructions for hms victory model

Yüklə 14.41 Kb.
ölçüsü14.41 Kb.
Unpacking instructions for HMS Victory model
This document provides instructions required to remove the HMS Victory model from it's crate and to fit some removable parts back onto the model.
Tools required:

  • Philips screwdriver (to open the Inspection Panel)

  • Robertson screwdriver for # 8 screw

  • Robertson screwdriver for # 6 screws

  • 7/16 wrench

Uncrating: NOTE, TWO people are required to do this.

  • Inspect the crate and remove the inspection panel and look at the model to ensure it was not damaged in shipment.

  • Remove the top of the crate. There are screws around all four edges

  • Remove one end panel. Screws down sides and across the bottom. Do not remove the Philips head screws along the top edge of the end panels.

  • Remove one side panel. Screws on edge of remaining end panel and bottom of side panel. Do not remove the Philip head screws running in vertical rows on the side panel. Be sure someone is supporting the panel when the screws are removed to prevent it from falling onto the model.

  • Remove the second end panel. Screws down the side next to the remaining side panel and across the bottom. The remaining side panel and the end panel must be supported while and after the screws holding the end panel too it are removed.

  • Remove the second side panel. Screws along the bottom.

  • Remove the bracket which crosses the waist from the foam mould.

  • Remove the end panels of the foam mould.

  • Remove the foam mould. Screws through 2x4s into base. The mould is applying pressure to the hull so remove the screws at each end first then those in the center.

  • Cut the plastic wrap (at the stern) and remove it from the model.

  • Ensure the cradles under the hull are firmly in place.

  • Remove the shield around the rudder.

  • The model is shipped sitting on a board which can be used to move it from the crate to where it will reside. Remove the boards from around the carrying board and the six screws holding the board to the crate base. Remove the "L" brackets from the crate base and screw them down over the corners of the display base the model is on.

  • The ship can now be lifted from the crate base. Ropes can be run through the holes in the end of the carrying board to make it easier to carry.

  • Remove the boats and fittings from the box on the crate base and unwrap them. The CD has pictures of the interior of the model.

The pictures below will give you some perspective of how the model is crated and at various stages of crate assemble.

Position of ships boats in the waist.

Protective shield around the rudder

Model secured to the carrying board with "L" brackets.

Model wrapped in plastic prior to foam mould being put in place.

Foam mould and bracket to prevent the model from lifting are in place. The cardboard box contains the ships boats and other fittings. The grey box is the power supply for the lights.

Another view of the model with the foam mould in place.

Model in the crate with one end and one side panel in place.

View of model through the Inspection Panel in the completed crate

Reassembly instructions
Any items on the model that could move or be damaged in transit were removed and packed in the box fastened to the crate base or tied back on the model.

  • Cut and remove the small line holding the quarter davits vertical and let the davits fall into place on their tackle.

  • Hang the 25' cutters from the davits.

  • Place the boat cradles on the beams in the waist as shown in the diagram below. The cradles are labeled on their underside (e.g. BA is for Barge Aft)


    |LF | | |LA | |
    | | | | | |
    | | | |PF | |PA
    | | | | | |
    |BF | | |BA | |


  • Place the boats in the cradles as shown in the photo above.

  • Place the carronades on the foredeck, Port and Starboard at the bow.

  • Hook the main studding sail booms (longer ones) into the brackets on the channel opposite the main mast and hang the outer end of these booms in the "C" brackets at the aft end of the channel. Lay the fore studding sail booms next to the hammock nettings along the gangways.

  • Remove the panel in the poop deck aft of the mizzen mast and place the skylight in the opening.

  • Install the lanterns. The smallest one goes on the pin at the aft edge of the main top. The largest one goes on the pin at the center of the taffrail. The remaining two go at the outer ends of the taffrail. Turn the lanterns on their pins until they are tipping back the maximum amount.

  • Remove the cover of the power supply and then the screws holding it to the crate base. These same screws are used to hold the power supply to the underside of the display case base. The cable for the lights comes up through the display case base and plugs into a socket in the bottom of the keel. If the lights are to be used a hole for the cable to pass through must be made in the base of whatever display case is used. The split collar provided will go around the cable end under the keel and hide it from view.

  • Some of the guns may have moved during transit. To reposition them open each gunport and then use a round toothpick inserted into the barrel to move it into the required position. The guns are held to eyebolts in the hull with hooks in the end of the breeching ropes and tackle. These hooks are closed to ensure they do not come unhooked.

Details about the model
A number of features have been built into the model to enhance the viewing of it.

  • The stern assembly can be removed to view the interior of the officer's quarters. Lift the flag lockers off of the aft end of the poop deck. Pull the taffrail out until the deck beam clears the Poop deck then lift it up and out. The stern assembly will be suspended from the rigging attached to the taffrail.
    To put the stern back reverse the steps above. The timbers that extend from under the stern assembly make a very tight fit into the holes in the lower window sill so some wiggling around is required to seat them and to get the deck beams under the deck planking. Once the timbers and holes are lined up it will slip into place and force is not required.

  • The wheel drives the rudder using the same means as used in the original ship. If you turn the wheel the rudder moves.

  • The deck beams in the waist over the main hatch are removable as is the hatch grating. Slide the beams to starboard and shift the port end forward or back to get then away from the top of the pillars. The hatch gratings lift out. It can be difficult and taxing to get these deck beams back in place so it is not recommended they be removed unless there is a real and pressing need to get inside of the model.

  • All of the gunports open and almost all have enough resistance in the hinges to keep them open. There are two hooks in the deck beams behind each port. The line coming from the port lid through the hull has a knot at the inner end that can be hooked on the outer hook when the port is closed and on the inner port to keep the port open if the lid will not stay open on its own.

  • Interior lights can be turned on or off with the switch on the power supply.

  • The best way to view the internal features and fittings is with a bore scope or similar device put into the model through a gunport.

  • If the model has to be moved through a location where height is limited the top masts can be lowered by pulling out the Fid pins which go through the bottom of the mast and sit on the trestle trees. The caps on the Topmasts can be removed to allow the masts to pivot and be lowered further. This is something else that should only be done because of a very pressing need.
    To restore the mast to their original position raise them almost to the point where the Fid pins can be put in. Replace the mast caps. Raise the masts more and replace the Fid pins.

Verilənlər bazası müəlliflik hüququ ilə müdafiə olunur © 2016
rəhbərliyinə müraciət