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A bibliography of Clothing in Western Literature, Religion, and Art,


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A Bibliography of Clothing in Western Literature, Religion, and Art, (with an appendix on sumtuary legislation)
(not systematically updated since 1987)

Robert Baldwin

Connecticut College, Box 5411

New London, CT 06320

email: rwbal@conncoll.edu
GENERAL

Barber, Elizabeth Wayland, Women's Work: The First Twenty Thousand Years. Women, Cloth and Society in Early Times, New York: W. W. Norton, 1994

Barthes, Roland, "Histoire et sociologie du vêtement. Quelques observations méthodologiques", Annales. Economies, Sociétés, Civilisations, 12, 1957, 430-441

Barthes, Roland, The Fashion System, New York, 1983 (orig. Système de la mode, Paris, 1967)

Cordwell, J. M. and R. A. Schwarz, ed., The Fabrics of Culture: The Anthropology of Clothing and Ornament, The Hague, 1979 [22 essays]

Elias, Norbert, The Civilizing Process, New York, 1978

Dekker, Rudulf and Lotte van de Pol, The Tradition of Female Transvestism in Early Modern Europe, Houndmills: MacMillan Press, 1989 (ISBN o-333-41252-4)

Garber, Marjorie, Vested Interests, Routledge, 1991 (transvestism)

Harvey, John, Men in Black, Chicago: Un of C Pr, 1995

Hollander, Anne, Seeing Through Clothes, New York, 1978

König, R., Kleider und Leute. Zur Sociologie der Mode, Frankfurt, 1967

Polhemus, Ted, and Lynn Proctor, Fashion and Anti-Fashion: The Anthropology of Clothing and Adornment, London, 1978

Ratcliff, C. "Fashion, Style and Art", Art In America, 67, 4, 1979, 91-97

Uhlig, Claus, Hofkritik im England des Mittelalters und der Renaissance, Berlin, 1973 [hostility to clothing]



ANCIENT AND MEDIEVAL

Alford, John A., "The Wife of Bath Versus the Clerk of Oxford: What Their Rivalry Means", Chaucer Review, 21, 2, 1986, 108-132 [esp. 109, 114-117, 120-121 on rhetorical "garments")

André, Carlos Ascenso. 1984. O Nu: O Tratamento em Os Lusiadas de um Tema Renascentista. Rev. da Univ. de Aveiro, Latras. 1: 193-212. [nudity in Purtugese medieval literature and painting]

Anson, John, "The Female Transvestite in Early Monasticism", Viator, 5, 1974, 1-32

Arieti, James, "Nudity in Greek Atheletics", Classical World, 68, no. 7, 1975, 431-436

Avery, W. T., "The Adoratio Purpurae and the Importance of the Imperial Purple in the Fourth Century of the Christian Era", Memoirs of the American Academy in Rome, 17, 1940, 66ff.

Beaulieu, Michele, "Le costume, miroir des mentalités de la France médiévale 1350-1500", in Mélanges offerts à Jean Dauvillier, Toulouse, 1979, 65-87

Benkou, Edith, "The Naked Beast: Clothing and Humanity in 'Bisclavret'," Chimères, 19, 2, 1988, 27-43

Besserman, L., "Girdles, Belts and Cords: A Leitmotif in Chaucer's 'General Prologue'", Papers in Language and Literature, 22, 1986, 322-325

Bouffartigue, J. and M. Patillon, Porphyre: de l'abstinence I., Paris, 1977, 37-41 ["The tunic of the soul"]

Braun, R., Deus Christianorum (Brock, 35)

Brock, Sebastian, "Clothing Metaphors as a Means of Theological Expression in Syriac Tradition", in Margot Schmidt, Typus, Symbol, Allegorie bei den östlichen Vatern und ihren Parallelen im Mittelalter, Regensburg, 1982, 11-40

Brock, Sebastian, "Jewish Tradition in Syriac Sources", Journal of Jewish Studies, 30, 1979, 221-223 (Biblical "garments of paradise")

Brock, Sebastian, "Some Aspects of Greek Words in Syriac," Abhandlungen der Akademie der Wissenschaften in Göttingen, 96, 1975, 98-104

Brock, Sebastian, The Holy Spirit in Syrian Baptismal Tradition, Kottayam, India, 48-52 [Biblical garments of light]

Broderick, H. R., "A Note on the Garments of Paradise", Byzantion, 1985, 250-254 [Biblical metaphor]

Bronner, Leah, "Rethinking Isaiah 20", in W. C. van Wyk, Studies in Isaiah, Hercules, South Africa, n.d., (ca. 1981) 32-41

Brosnahan, Leger, "'And don thyn hood' and Other Hoods in Chaucer", Chaucer Review, 21, 1, 1986, 45-52

Brückner, Wolfgang, "Sterben im Mönchsgewand", in Kontakte und Grenzen. Probleme der Volks-, Kultur- und Sozialforschung. Festschrift Gerhard Heilfurth, Göttingen, 1969, 259-277

Bullough, Vern, "Transvestites in the Middle Ages", American Journal of Sociology, 79, 1974, 1381-1394

Burghardt, W. J., "Cyril of Alexandria on 'Wool and Linen'", Traditio, 2, 1944, 484ff.

Bynum, Caroline Walker, "The Body of Christ in the Later Middle Ages: A Reply to Leo Steinberg", Renaissance Quarterly, XXXIX, 3, 1986, 399-439 [nudity)

Caie, Graham D., "An Iconographic Detail in the 'Roman de la Rose' and the Middle English 'Romaunt'", Chaucer Review, 8, 4, 1974, 320-323 [elaborate, close fitting sleeves as courtly folly)

Cameron, Averil, "The Virgin's Robe: An Episode in the History of Early Seventh Century Constantinople", Byzantion, 49, 1979, 42-56

Cassell, A. K., "'Mostrando con le poppe il petto' (Purg. XXIII.102)", Dante Studies 96, 1978, 75-81

Chatillon, Jean, "Nudum Christum nudus sequere. Note sur les origines et la signification du thème de la nudité spirituelle dans les écrits spirituels de saint Bonaventure", in S. Bonaventura, 1274-1974, Rome, 1974, IV, 719-772

Clover, C. J., "Maiden Warriors and Other Sons", Journal of English and Germanic Philology, 85, 1986, 35-49 [transvestitism in Norse literature]

Coletti, Theresa, "The Design of the Digby Play of Mary Magdalene", Studies in Philology, LXXVI, Oct., 1979, 313-333, esp. 325-331 [worldly, vain clothing]

Constable, Giles, "Nudus Nudum Christum Sequi and Parallel Formulas in the Twelfth Century", in Continuity and Discontinuity in Church History: Essays Presented to George Hunston Williams, Leiden, 1979, 83-91

Constable, Giles, "The Ceremonies and Symbolism of Entering Religious Life and Taking the Monastic Habit, from the Fourth to the Twelfth Century", Atti di Spoleto 'Settimana', 1985, forthcoming INCOMPLETE

Cosby, Michael R., 1984. "Mark 14:51-52 and the Problem of Gospel Narrative", Perspectives in Religious Studies, 11: 219-231 [nudity]

Crowther, W. B., "Nudity and Morality: Athletics in Italy", Classical Journal, 76, 1980-81, 119-123

Cutler, A., "Innocent III and the Distinctive Clothing of Jews and Muslims," Studies in Medieval Culture," 3, 1970, 92-116 [argues distinctive costume was imposed to humiliate Jews, not prevent miscegenaiton; but David Nirenberg, Communities of Violence, 1996, p. 133 shows how fears of cross-ethnic sex were important]

Danielou, Jean, "Les tuniques de peau chez Grégoire de Nysse," in Glaube, Geist, Geschichte: Festschrift für E. Benz ed. G. Müller, Leiden, 1967, 355-367

Danielou, Jean, The Bible and the Liturgy, Notre Dame, 1966, 37-40, 49-53 ["garb of flesh"]

Delort, Robert, "Les animaux et l'habillement", in L'Uomo di fronte al mondo animale nell'alto medioevo, (Settimane di Studio del Centro Italiano di Studi sull'Alto Medioevo, 31), 1985, 701-706

Deslandres, Yvonne, "Le costume du roi saint Louis, étude iconographique et technique", Septième centenaire de la mort de saint Louis, Paris, 1976, 105-114

Dihle, Albrecht, "Das Gewand des Einsiedlers Antonius", Jahrbuch für Antike und Christentum, 22, 1979, 22-29

Eisler, R., Weltenmantel und Himmelszelt. Munich, 1910.

Emmerson, Richard and Ronald Herzman, "The Apocalyptic Age: Faus Semblant and Amant in the 'Roman de la Rose'," Speculum, 62, 3, 1987, 612-634

Ernst, U., "Gottfried von Strassburg in Komparatistischer Sicht. Form und Funktion der Allegorese im Tristanepos", Euphorion, 70, 1, 1976, 1-72

Fantham, Elaine, Comparative Studies in Republican Latin Imagery, Toronto, 1972, 166-7, 171 [rhetorical "garments"]

Freedman, D., "Subat basti: a Robe of Splendor," Journal of the Ancient Near Eastern Society of Columbia University, 4, 1972, 91-95 [Syrian legend]

Gardner, A., "Hairstyles and Head-dresses: 1050-1600", Journal of the British Archaeology Association, 13, 1950,

Geddes, A. G., "Rags and Riches: The Costume of Athenian Men in the Fifth Century," Classical Quarterly, 37, 2, 1987, 307-331 [Univ. of Adelaide]

Gilmartin, Kristine, "Array in the 'Clerk's Tale'", Chaucer Review, 13, 3, 1979, 234-236

Goldberg, Harriet, "Clothing in 'Tirant-lo-Blanc': Evidence of Realismo vitalista or of a New Unreality", Hispanic Review, 52, 3, 1984, 379-392

Goodenough, E. R., Jewish Symbols in the Greco-Roman Period, New York, 1964, vol. IX, 124-174 ["symbolism of dress"]

Gothein, M., "Der Gottheit lebendiges Kleid," Archiv für Religionswissenschaft 9, 1906, 337-364

Gougaud, Louis, "Deathbed Clothing with the Religious Habit", idem, Devotional and Ascetic Practices in the Middle Ages, London, 1927, trans. G. C. Bateman, 131-145

Grayson, Janet. 1985. "The Eschatological Adam's Kirtle", Mystics Quarterly, 11, 4: 153-160.

Gregoire, Reginald, "L'adage ascétique 'Nudus nudum Christum sequi'", Studi storici in onore de Ottorino Bertolini, Pisa, 1972, I., 395-409

Griffin, Jasper, Latin Poets and Roman Life, Chapel Hill, 1986, "The Pleasures of Water and Nakedness", pp. 88-111

Hahn, I., "Zur Theorie der Personerkenntnis in der deutschen Literatur des 12. bis 14. Jahrhunderts", Beiträge zur Geschichte der Deutschen Sprache und Literatur, 99, 3, 1977, 395-444

Harl, M., "La prise de conscience de la 'nudité' d'Adam: une interprétation de Gen. 3.7 chez les Pères grecs," Studia Patristica, 7, 1966, 486-495

Hart, Thomas Elwood, "Chrestien, Macrobius and Chartrean Science: The Allegorical Robe as Symbol of Textual Design in the Old French Erec," Medieval Studies, 43, 1981, 250-296

Hasse, Max, "Die Mode", in Die Parler und der Schöne Stil 1350-1400, Cologne, 1978, 3 vols., III, 137ff

Hasse, Max, "Neues Hausgerät, neue Häuser, neue Kleider. Ein Betrachtung der städtischen Kultur im 13. und 14. Jahrhundert sowie ein Katalog der metallenen Hausgeräte", Zeitschrift für Archäologie des Mittelalters, 7, 1979, 7-83

Hasse, Max, "Studien zur Skulptur des ausgehenden 14. Jahrhunderts", Staedel Jahrbuch, 6, 1977, 99-128

Haulotte, Edgar, Symbolique du vêtement selon la bible, Paris: Aubier, 1966

Haussherr, Reiner, "Convenevolezza: historische Ausgemessenheit in der Darstellung von Kostum und Schauplatz seit der Spätantike bis ins 16. Jahrhundert", Akademie der Wissenschaften und der Literatur, Mainz, Abhandlungen der Geistes- und Sozial Wissenschaftlichen Klasse, 1984, no. 4, Wiesbaden, 1984

Haxthausen, O. H. M., "Heraldic Dress for Ladies", Family History, 1981, 312-322

Hicks, Eric, "Discours de la toilette, toilette du discours: De l'idéologie du vêtement dans quelques écrits didactiques de Christine de Pizan," Revue des Langues Romanes, 92, 2, 1988, 327-341

Hodges, Laura, "Chaucer's Costume Rhetoric in His Portrait of the Prioress", Ph.D., Rice University, 1985

Hook, D., "Some Observations Upon the Episode of the Cid's Lion", Modern Language Review, 71, 3, 1976, 553-564

Hubbard, Nancy, "Sub Palio: The Sources and Development of the Iconography of the Virgin of Mercy", Ph.D., Northwestern University, 1984

Husner, F., "Leib und Seele in der Sprache Senecas", Philologus Suppl., XVII.3, 1924, 84-91 ["Der Leib - ein Kleid der Seele"]

Jaacks, Gisela, "Städtisches Kleidung im Mittelalter", in Jürgen Wittstock, ed., Aus dem Alltag der mittelalterlichen Stadt, Bremen, 1982, 219-232

Jewers, Caroline, "Fabric and Fabrication : Lyric and Narrative in Jean Renart's 'Roman de la Rose'," Speculum, 1996, 907-924

Jitrik, Joé. 1984. El asombro y la escritura, la ropa: Desnudos, cobardes y esclavos: El sexo omitido, 455-461 in Lia Lerner and Isaias Lerner, eds., Homenaje a Ana Maria Barrenechea. Madrid: Castalia. [nudity in Spanish medieval literature].

Jones, George Fenwick, "Sartorial Symbols in Mediaeval Literature," Medium Aevum, 25, 1956, 63-70
Jones, George Fenwick, "Twey mytenes, as mete," Modern Language Notes, 67, 1952, 512ff.

Kantorowicz, E. K., "Gods in Uniform", Proceedings of the American Philosophical Society, 105, 4, 1961, 368-393; reprinted in idem, Selected Studies, Locust Valley, 1965. [classical and Christian gods and saints in military costume)

Kehl, A., "Gewand (der Seele)," RAC, 10, 1978, 945-1045

Ketterer, Robert, "Stripping in the Parabasis of Acharnians", Greek, Roman, and Byzantine Studies, 21, 3, 1980, 217-221

Klein, F. N., Die Lichterminologie bei Philon von Alexandrien und in den hermetischen Schriften, Leiden, 1962, 61-66 ["Das Lichtkleid als Symbol des Besitzes göttlichen Lichtes"]

Konig, Réne, Kleider und Leute: Zur Soziologie der Mode, Frankfurt: Fischer, 1967

Krogerus, Gunvor, "Bezeichnungen für Frauenkopfbedeckungen und kopfschmuck im Mittelniederdeutschen", Commentationes Humanarum Litterarum, 72, 1982
Latztke, Therese, "Der Topos Mantelgedichte", Mittellateinisches Jahrbuch, 6, 1970, 109-131

Latztke, Therese, "Die Mantelgedichte des Primas Hugo von Orléans und Martial", Mittellateinisches Jahrbuch, 5, 1968, 54-58

Le Goff, Jacques, "Vestimentary and Alimentary Codes in 'Erec et Enide," idem, The Medieval Imagination, Chicago, 1988, 132-150,

Magne, Jean. 1980. "Ouverture des yeux, connaissance et nudité dans les récits Gnostiques du paradis", Vigiliae Christianae 34: 288-301.

Malherbe, Abraham J., "Antisthenes and Odysseus, and Paul at War", Harvard Theological Review, 76, 2, 1983, 143-173 [Cynics' ragged clothing as weapon in pagan and early Christian thought]

Mansfield, John. "The Robe of Athena and the Panathenaic Peplos." Thesis, University of California, Berkeley, 1985.

Martin, Rebecca, Textiles in Daily Life in the Middle Ages, Cleveland, 1985

Messana, V.. 1982. "La nudité d'Adam et d'Eve chez Diadoque", in Elizabeth Livingstone,ed., Studia Patristica, 17, Elmsford, NY: Pergamon Press: 325-332.

Milgrom, Jacob, "Of Hems and Tassels: Rank, Authority, and Holiness were Expressed in Antiquity by Fringes on Garments", Biblical Archaeology Review, 9, 3, 1983, 61-65

Mohr, Wolfgang, "Wandel des Menschenbildes in der mittelalterlicher Dichtung", Wirkendes Wort, Sammelband II, 1962, 127-138

Munro, John N., "The Medieval Scarlet and the Economics of Sartorial Splendor", in N. B. Harte and K. G. Ponting, eds., Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E. M. Carus-Wilson, London, 1983, 13-70

Murdoch, Brian, The Fall of Man in the Early Middle High German Biblical Epic, Göppingen, 1972 [garments of paradise and sin]

Nakae, Miyuki, "Clothes in 14th and 15th Century France: An Analysis According to the Annales School", Shakai-Keizai-Shigaku, 44, 4, 1978, 40-59

Newman, Barbara, Sister of Wisdom. St. Hildegard's Theology of the Feminine, Berkeley: University of California Press, 1987, 71-75, 94-97 ["Wisdom's vesture", "The garment and the mirror"].

Newton, Stella, et al, "Frilled Edges", Textile History, 14, 2, 1983, 141-152

Newton, Stella, Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince, Boydell Press, 1980

Norwich, Julian of, Revelations of Divine Love, (esp. 51rst chapter on lord and his servant)

Oppenheim, Philipp, Das Monchskleid im christlichen Altertum, Freiburg, 1931 (Römische Quartalschrift für christliche Altertumskunde und für Kirchengeschichte Supplementheft 28)

Oppenheim, Philipp, Symbolik und religiose Wertung des Monchskleides im christlichen Altertum, vornehmlich nach zeugnissen christlicher Schriftsteller der Ostkirche, Munster, 1932, (Theologie des christlichen Osten: Texte und Untersuchungen, 2)

Os, Henk van, "Mary as Seamstress", idem. Studies in Early Tuscan Painting, London: Pindar Press, 1992 [14th century Italian painting]

Ostler, Blake, "Clothed Upon: A Unique Aspect of Christian Antiquity", Brigham Young University Studies, 22, 1, 1982, 31-45

Otto, S., Natura und Dispositio: Untersuchung zum Naturbegriff und zur Denkform Tertullians, Munich, 1960, 153-157 ["Das Bild des Kleides"]

Owst, G. R., Literature and Pulpit in Medieval England, rev. ed., London, 1961 [index)

Pascher, J., "He Basilike Hodos: Der Königsweg zur Wiedergeburt und Vergottung bei Philon von Alexandrien," Studien zur Geschichte und Kultur des Altertums, VII, 3-4, 1931, 51-60 ["Kleidungsallegorese und die Gewandsymbolik der Mysterienreligionen"]

Pepin, J., "Saint Augustin et le symbolisme néoplatonicien de la vêture," Augustinus Magister: Congrès international augustinien, Paris, 1954, I., 293-306

Perdrizet, P., La Vierge de la misericorde, Paris, 1908 [protective cloak in folklore and religion)

Peterson, Erik, "Theol. d. Kleides", Benediktinische Monatsschrift, 16, 1934, 347-356, repr. in Marginalien zur Theologie, 1956, 41-55; [raiment in New Testament)

Peterson, Erik, Pour une théologue du vêtement, Lyon, 1943

Platelle, Henri, "Le probleme du scandale: les nouvelles modes masculines aux XIe et XIIe siècles", Revue belge de philologie et d'histoire, 53, 4, 1975, 1071-1096

Polheim, Karl, "Der Mantel," Corona quernea: Festgabe Karl Strecker zum 80. Geburtstage dargebracht, Leipzig: Karl W. Hiersemann, 1941, 41-64

Poretsky, Rita, "Clothing and Self: Biblical and Rabbinic Perspectives", Journal of Psychology and Judaism, 10, 1, 1986, 42-54

Quasten, J., "A Pythagorean Idea in Jerome", American Journal of Philology, LXIII, 1942, 207ff

Quasten, J., "The Garment of Immortality," Miscellanea Liturgica in onore di sua Eminenza il cardinale Giacomo Lercaro, Rome, 1966, I., 391-401

Quasten, J., "Theodore of Mopsuestia on the Exorcism of the Cilicium", Harvard Theological Review, XXXV, 1942, 209ff

Ramsey, Roger, "Clothing Makes a Queen in 'The Clerk's Tale'", Journal of Narrative Technique, 7, 1977, 104-115

Raw, Barbara C., "The Dream of the Rood and Christian Art", Medium Aevum, 39, 1970, 245-6 [Christ's blood as robe of imperial purple]

Régnier-Bohler, Danielle, Le Corps mis à nu: Perception et valeur symbolique de la nudité dans les récits du Moyen Age. Europe 654, 1983: 51-62.

Reinhold, V. M., History of Purple as a Status Symbol in Antiquity, Brussels, 1970

Robertson, D. W., "'And for my Land thus Hastow Mordred Me?' Land Tenure, the Cloth Industry, and 'The Wife of Bath'", Chaucer Review, 14, 4, 1980, 403-420

Rudolph, K., Die Mandäer, II: Der Kult, Göttingen, 1961, 181-188 (popularity of "garments of light" imagery)

Ruh, K. "Zur Motivik und Interpretation der Frauentreue", Beiträge zur Geschichte der Deutschen Sprache und Literatur, 95, 1973, 258-272

Sasson, Jack. 1985. "Genesis 2:25 and Its Implications", Biblica 66, 3: 418-421. [garments of paradise and sin]

Schotter, Anne Howland, "The Poetic Function of Alliterative Formulas of Clothing in the Portrait of the Pearl Maiden", Studia Neophilologica, 51, 2, 1979, 189-195

Schouwink, Wilfried, "Strip Dice Medieval Style: Christ's Clothes and Other Garments in a Mystic Sermon of the Fifteenth Century," Fifteenth-Century Studies, 20, 1994,

Schwob, Ute Monika. 1982. "'Herrinnen' in Tyroler Quellen: Zur rechtlichen und sozialen Stellung der adeligen Frau im Mittelalter", 157-182 in Egon Kühebacher (ed). Literatur und bildende Kunst im Tyroler Mittelalter. Innsbruck: Institut für Germanistik der Universität Innsbruck.

Scott, Margaret, Late Gothic Europe: 1400-1500, London and Atlantic Highlands: Humanities Press, 1980 [costume and nudity]

Sieger, Joanne Deane. "Visual Metaphor as Theology: Leo the Great's Sermons on the Incarnation and the Arch Mosaics at S. Maria Maggiore." Gesta 26 (1987): 83-91.

Sjögren, Christine Oertel, "Tuch as a Symbol for Art in Stifter's 'Der Hochwald', Journal of English and Germanic Philology, LXXIII, 3, 1974, 375-387

Smith, J. Z., "The Garments of Shame", History of Religions, 5, 1965-6, 217-238 [Old Testament Biblical garments]

Smith, James, "The Garments that Honour the Cross in 'The Dream of the Rood'", Anglo-Saxon England, 4, 1975, 29-35 [repugnant blood as splendid imperial garment]

Solway, Susan, "A Numismatic Source of the Madonna of Mercy", Art Bulletin, LXVII, 3, 1985, 359-367 [protective robe]

Spitzer, L., "Additional Note on 'Wool and Linen' in Jerome", American Journal of Philology, LXIV, 1943, 98ff.

Stavila, Constantin. 1976. "Coup de theatre philosophique: Le Consécration spirituelle de l'homme nu et sans masque technologique", Foi Vie, 75: 48-71.

Stiller, N., "Transformation of the Physical in the Middle English Pearl", English Studies, 63: 1982: 402-409. [nudity]

Stone, L., Costume in Aristophanic Comedy, Arno Classical Monographs, 1980

Sturm-Maddox, Sara and Donald Maddox, "Description in Medieval Narrative: Vestimentary Coherence in Chretien's 'Erec et Enide'", Medioevo Romanzo, 9, 1, 1984, 51-64

Talbot, C. H., introduction, Sermones Inediti B. Aelredi Abbatis Rievallensis, Rome, 1952, 20-23 (controversy over Peter Lombard's incarnational garment metaphors; see esp. Aelred's 2nd sermon on the Annunciation

Thalmann, William G., "Xerxes' Rags: Some Problems in Aeschylus' 'Persians'", American Journal of Philology, 101, 3, 1980, 260-282

Twycross, Meg, "Transvestism in the Mystery Plays," Medieval English Theatre, 5, 1983, 123-180

Trevedy, M. J., "Note sur l'inhumation des laiques dans l'habit religieux", Bulletin de la société archéologique du Finistere, XXIV, 1897, 257-266

van Uytven, Raymond, "Cloth in Medieval Literature of Western Europe", in N. B. Harte and K. G. Ponting, eds., Cloth and Clothing in Medieval Europe: Essays in Memory of Professor E. M. Carus-Wilson, London, 1983, 151-183

van Waateringe, Groenman, and L. M. Velt, "Schuhmode im späten Mittelalter", Zeitschrift für Archäologie des Mittelalters, 3, 1975, 95-119

Weiss, Paula Barran, "Personal Clothing in Wolfram's 'Parzival' and 'Willehalm': Symbolism and Significance", Ph.D., University of British Columbia, 1976

Wendland, P., "Das Gewand der Eitelkeit", Hermes, LI, 1916, 481ff.

Wilckens, in Gerhard Kittel, Theological Dictionary of the New Testament, vol. 7, pp. 687-691, with further refs.

Wilkinson, L. P.. 1978. "Classical Approaches". Encounter 51, August: 18-28. [nudity in classical art].

Wis, Marjatta, "Das Nibelungenlied und Aliscans: Zum Problem von 'luden' in Nibelungenlied", Neuphilologische Mitteilungen, 86, 1, 1986, 4-14.

Wis, Marjatta, "Zu den 'Schneiderstrophen' des Nibelungen Liedes: Ein Deutungsversuch", Neuphilologische Mitteilungen, 84, 2, 1983, 251-260


EARLY MODERN (15-17TH CENTURIES)

Baldwin, Robert, "Textile Aesthetics in Early Netherlandish Painting," Textiles of the Low Countries in European Economic History. Proceedings of the Tenth International Economic History Congress, B-15, eds. Erik Aerts and John Munro, Leuven: Leuven University Press, 1990, 32-40

Baldwin, Robert, "'On earth we are beggars, as Christ himself was': The Protestant Background of Rembrandt's Imagery of Poverty, Disability, and Begging", Konsthistorisk Tidskrift, 54, 3, 1985, 122-135 [metaphoric rags]

Barnwell, H. T., "Molière and the Expectation of Comedy," Studi Francesi, 55, 1975, 34-47

Bax, Dirk, Hieronymus Bosch: His Picture Writing Deciphered, Rotterdam: A. A. Balkema, 151-152; 234-236 [nakedness, sack-caps]

Becker, Carole Roberta, "'Clothing the Soul': A Study of the Poetic Theory and Practice of George Chapman as Revealed in the Literary Forms and Symbolic Figures of Five Major Poems", Ph.D. University of Minnesota, 1975

Bevington, David, Action is Eloquence. Shakespeare's Language of Gesture, Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1984, ch. 2

Blench, J. W., Preaching in England in the Late 15th and 16th Century, Oxford, 1964 [see index]

Brooks, Cleanth, "The Naked Babe and the Cloak of Manliness", idem, The Well Wrought Urn, London, 1947, 17-19 [clothing in Macbeth]

Carlson, A. J., "Mundus Muliebris: the World of Women Reviled and Defended, ca. 195 B.C. and 1551 A.D. and Other Things," Sixteenth Century Journal, 24, 3, 1993, 541-560

Chapeaurouge, D. de, "Aktporträt des 16. Jahrhunderts", Jahrbuch der Berliner Museen, 11, 1969, 161f [with English summary]

Charney, Maurice, "'We put fresh garments on him': Nakedness and Clothes in 'King Lear'", in Rosalie Colie and F. T. Flahiff, eds., Some Facets of King Lear: Essays in Prismatic Criticism, Toronto, 1974, 77-88

Clark, Sandra, "Hic Mulier, Haec Vir: The Controversy over Masculine Women", Studies in Philology, LXXXII, 2, 1985, 157-183

Cohen, Kathleen, Metamorphosis of a Death Symbol. The Transi Tomb in the Late Middle Ages and the Renaissance, Berkeley, 1973 [splendid clothing vs. rotting corpse]

Coltellacci, Stefano, "Studi belliniani: La Derisione di Noè a Besançon", Giorgione e la cultura veneta tra '400 e '500, Rome, 1981, 80-87 [nudity, uncovering]

Connoisseur, March 1977, textiles in Dutch art

Cuttler, Charles, "Exotics in Fifteenth-Century Netherlandish Art: Comments on Oriental and Gipsy Costume", in Frans Vanwijngaerden, ed., Liber Amicorum Herman Liebaers, Brussels, 1984, 419-434

Davenport, Tony, "Lusty fresche galaunts'", in Paula Neuss, ed., Aspects of Early English Drama, Cambridge, 1983, 110-128 [gallant clothing]

Davis, Lloyd, Guise and Disguise: Rhetoric and Characterization in the English Renaissance, Toronto: UTP, 1993

Davis, Natalie Zemon, "Women on Top: Symbolic Sexual Inversion and Political Disorder in Early Modern Europe", in Barbara Babcock, ed., The Reversible World, Ithaca, 1978, 147-190 [battle for trousers]

Denny, Don, "A Symbol in Hugo van der Goes' 'Lamentation'", Gazette des Beaux Arts, XCV, Mar., 1980, 121-125 [elegant hat vs. crown of thorns]

Dixon, John, "The Drama of Donatello's David", Gazette des Beaux-Arts, XCIII, January, 1979, 6-12 [nudity as weakness favored by God]

Dock, S. V., "Moliere and Dress: 17th Century Evidence of His Interest in Theatrical Costuming and Contemporary Fashion", Ph.D., Vanderbilt University, 1979

Doehaerd, R., Le Haut Moyen Age: Economie et Sociétés, Paris, 1971, 232-234 (references to "Frisian" cloths in medieval literature)

Dominguez, F., "Vestment Images in Lope de Vega's 'El divino africano'", Romance Notes, 20, 3, 1980, 388-392 [Pauline imagery]

Eisler, Colin, "The Athelete of Virtue. The Iconography of Asceticism", in M. Meiss, ed., De Artibus Opuscula. Essays in Honor of Erwin Panofsky, NY, 1961, 82-97 [nudity]

Fleissner, Robert. 1985. "'Julia's Clothes' Retailored", Cahiers Elisabéthains, 28: 73-76. [Herrick]

Frye, D., "The Context of Lear's Unbuttoning", English Literary History, 32, 1965, 17-31

Geary, Keith, "The Nature of Portia's Victory: Turning to Men in 'The Merchant of Venice'," Shakespeare Survey, 37, 1984, 55-66 [crooss dressing]

Gibson, Walter. "Some Flemish Popular Prints from Hieronymous Cock and His Contemporaries", Art Bulletin, LX, 4, Dec., 1978, pp. 673-681 [battle for trousers]

Gray, Floyd, Le style de Montaigne, Paris, 1958, 157-158, 175-176 ["garment" of style]

Greenfield, Thelma, "The Clothing Motif in 'King Lear'", Shakespeare Quarterly, 5, 1954, 281-286

Heilman, Robert, This Great Stage: Image and Structure in "King Lear", Baton Rouge, 1948, 67-87

Herald, Jacqueline, Renaissance Dress in Italy, Atlantic Highlands, 1982

Hieatt, A. Kent, "Hans Baldung Grien's Ottawa Eve and Its Context", Art Bulletin, LXV, 2, 1983, 290-304 [nudity]

Hughes, Diane Owen, "Distinguishing Signs: Ear-rings, Jews, and Franciscan Rhetoric in the Italian Renaissance City", Past and Present, 112, 1986, 3-59.

Hunter, G. K., "Flat Cats in Blue Coats: Visual Signs on the Elizabethan Stage", in Ing-Stina Ewbask, ed., Essays and Studies, (English Association, vol. 33), London, 1980

Janicka-Swiderska, I., "The 'Contention Between Liberalitie and Prodigalitie' and 'Old Fortunatus' as Transitional Plays", Acta Universitatis Lodziensis, 1, 1980, 63-84 [De Dekker]

Joly, Monique, "Sémiologie du vêtement et interprétation de texte", Revista Canadiense de Estudios Hispanicos, 2, 1977, 54-64

Koslow, Susan, "'God the Father borrowed a sack from the Virgin Mary': The Curtain Sack and the Exegetical Tradition of Psalm 29, Verse 12,", forthcoming

Koslow, Susan, "The Curtain-Sack: A Newly Discovered Incarnation Motif in Rogier van der Weyden's 'Columba Annunciation." Artibus et Historiae, 13, 1986, 9-33 [human nature as a sack concealing Christ's divinity]

Larsen, Anne, "Reading/Writing and Gender in the Renaissance: The Case of Catherine des Roches (1542-1587)" Symposium, 41, 4, 1987-8, 292-307 [spinning, weaving, writing]

Lawrence, Francis, "The Garment of Style in French Renaissance Poetics", Revue des langues vivantes, 41, 1975, 339-347

Lawry, J. S., "A Prospect of Jonson's 'The New Inn'", Studies in English Literature, 23, 2, 1983, 311-327

Leach, Patricia, "Images of Political Triumph: Donatello's Iconography of Heroes", Ph.D., Princeton, 1984, ch. 3 [positive nudity, body as image of God]

Ledogar, Judith Wolfinger, "Dress and Nudity in the Iconography of the Florentine Renaissance Woman", Ph.D., University of North Carolina, 1982

Liedtke, Walter, "'Clothing the Naked' by Michiel Sweerts", Apollo, January, 1983, 21-23

Linthium, M. C., Costume in the Drama of Shakespeare and His Contemporaries, Oxford, 1937

Lucas, R. Valerie, "Hic Mulier: The Female Transvestite in Early Modern England", Renaissance and Reformation, 12, 1, 1988, 65-84

MacCurdy, R., "The Bathing Nude in Golden Age Drama", Romance Notes, 1, 1959, 36-39

MacIntyre, Jean, "Words, Acts, and Things: Visual Language in 'Coriolanus'", English Studies in Canada, 10, 1, 1984, 1-10 [headwear]

Martinet, Marie-Madeleine, "Pensée et vêtement: Une metaphor réflexive du XVIIe siècle, source d'un symbolisme moderne", Bulletin de la société d'études anglo-americaines des XVIIe et XVIIIe siècles, 12, 1981, 45-60

McGrath, Elizabeth, "Rubens's Susanna and the Elders and Moralizing Interpretations on Prints", in Herman Vekeman, and Justus Müller Hofstede, eds, Wort und Bild in der niederländischen Kunst und Literarur des 16. und 17. Jahrhunderts, Erfstadt, 1984, 73-90 [nudity]

McNamara, Peter, "Clothing Thought: Dryden on Language", Tulane Studies in English, 20, 1972, 57-70

McNamee, Maurice, "The Origin of the Vested Angel as a Eucharistic Symbol in Flemish Painting," Art Bulletin, 54, 1972, 263-278.

Mellinkoff, Ruth, "Christian and Jewish Mitres: A Paradox", in Per Bjurström, Nils-Göran Hökby, Florentine Mütherich, eds., Florilegium in Honorem Carl Nordenfalk Octogenarii Contextum, Stockholm: Nationalmuseum Stockholm, 1987, 145-158

Mireille, Madou, "Notes on the History of Costume with Regard to Some Paintings from the Bouts Group", [in Flemish], Arca Louvaniensis, 4, 1975, 207-219

Mirollo, James V., Mannerism and Italian Poetry, New Haven, 1984, 99-124 [veils and veiling]; 125-159 [gloves]

Modern Philology, 29, 1931-32, 149ff, motif of ugly old woman in fine clothes

Morse, H. K., English Pageantry: A Pictorial Survey of Costume and Its Commentators from 1560-1620, Studio, 1934

Muir, K., "Image and Symbol in 'Macbeth'", idem, Shakespeare the Professional, London, 1973

Nevinson, J. L., "New Material for the History of Seventeenth-Century Costume in England", Apollo, 20, 1934, 315-319

Newton, Stella Mary, Dress of the Venetians, 1495-1525, London: Scolar Press, 1988 (rev. BM June 1990, 419-20)

O'Malley, John, "The Theology Behind Michelangelo's Ceiling" in The Sistine Chapel, New York, 1986, 92-148 [positive nudity, body as image of God]

Peacock, N. A., "Verbal Costume in 'L'école des femmes'", Modern Language Review, 79, 3, 1984, 541-552 [Molière]

Reynolds, A., "Il 'capitolo contro portar la toga' di Galileo Galilei", Critica Letteraria, 8, 3, 1980, 419-435

Romane-Musculus, Paul, "Histoire de la robe pastorale et du rabat", Bulletin de la société de l'histoire du protestantisme français, 115, 3, 1969, 307-328 [historical circumstances, laws, and tradition, not theology, governed French ministerial dress, 16-19th c.]

Rose, Mary Beth, "Women in Men's Clothing: Apparel and Social Stability in 'The Roaring Girl'," in Renaissance Historicism, eds. Arthur F. Kinney and Dan Collins, Amherst: Univ. of Mass Press, 1987

Russell, D. "Panurge and His New Clothes", Etudes rabelaisiennes, 14, 1977, 89-104

Schleiner, Winfried. "Male Cross-Dressing and Transvestism in Renaissance Romances." The Sixteenth-Century Journal 19 (1988): 605-620.

Shurbanov, A., "Clothes Symbolism in Marlowe's 'Hero and Leander'", Annuaire de l'université de Sofia, Serie faculté des lettres, 67, 2, 1973, 179-200

Slatkes, Leonard, Rembrandt and Persia, New York: Abaris Books, 1983

Smith, David, Masks of Wedlock: Dutch Marriage Pair Portraiture, Ann Arbor, 1982, [gloves in 17th century Dutch art]

Steadman, John M., "The Iconographical Background to Quarles' 'Flesh' and 'Spirit'", Art Bulletin, 39, 3, Sept. 1957, 232-232 [nudity in emblems]

Stockar, Jurg, Kultur und Kleidung der Barockzeit, Zurich: Classen, 1964

Stone-Ferrier, Linda, From Cloth to Clothing: Depictions of Textile Production and Textiles in Seventeenth-Century Dutch Art, Ann Arbor, 1984

Strunks, Emily Jo, "The Metaphors of Clothing and Nudity in the 'Essais' of Montaigne", Romance Notes, 19, 1978, 83-89

Viswanathan, S., "Macbeth in the Tiring House: The Clothes and Actor Motifs in the Play", Anglia, 100, 1982, 18-35

Weinberg, Gail S., "Herrick's 'Upon Julia's Clothes'", The Explicator, 27, 2, 1968, 12

Williams, George, "Second Thoughts on Lear's 'Good Block'", Shakespeare Quarterly, 29, 1978, 421-422 [hat]



MODERN (1700-)

Alexander, Lynn. "The Forgotten Icon: The Seamstress in Victorian Fiction." Thesis, University of Tulsa, 1986.

Allen, Carolyn, "'Dressing the Unknowable in the Garments of the Known': The Style of Djuna Barnes's 'Nightwood'", in Douglas Butturff and Edmund Epstein, eds., Women's Language and Style, Akron, 1978, 106-118

Anderson, Mark, "Kafka's Clothes", Ph.D., Johns Hopkins University, 1985

Anninger, Anne, "Costumes of the Convention: Art as Agent of Social Change in Revolutionary France", Harvard Library Bulletin, 30, 2, 1982, 179-203 [Jacobin clothing, David]

Aubry, F., "Henry van de Velde ou la négation de la mode", Revue de l'institute de sociologie, 2, 1977, 293-306

Battersby, M. Art Deco Fashion: French Designers 1908-1925, London: Academy Editions, 1974

Beizer, Janet. 1985. "Uncovering Nana: The Courtesan's New Clothes", L'Esprit Créateur, 25, 2: 45-56.

Borker, Ruth, "To Honor Her Head: Hats as Symbol of Women's Position in Three Edinburgh Churches", in Judith Hoch-Smith, ed., Women in Ritual and Symbolic Roles, New York, 1978, 55-73

Bowlt, "John, "From Pictures to Textile Prints", Soviet Union, 3, 2, 1976, 311-325; repr. in Print Collector's Newsletter, 7, 1, 1976, 16-29 [Constructivism in clothing and textile design]

Bowlt, John, Stage Designs and the Russian Avant-garde (1911-1929), Washington, D.C., 1976

Buck, Anne, "Clothes in Fact and Fiction, 1825-1865", Costume, 17, 1983, 89-104

Buck, Anne, "The Costume of Jane Austen and Her Characters", in The So-Called Age of Elegance, London: The Costume Society, 1970

Byrde, P., A Frivolous Distinction: Fashion and Needlework in the Works of Jane Austen, Bath, 1979

Caldwell, Wayne, "The Emblem Tradition and the Symbolic Mode: Clothing Imagery in 'The House of the Seven Gables'", Emerson Society Quarterly, 70, 1973, 34-42

Carlyle, Thomas, Sartor Resartus, London, 1833

Carroll, Kenneth L., 1978. "Early Quakers and 'Going Naked as a Sign'", Quaker History 67: 69-87.

Carter, M., "The Strip Laid Bare", Art and Text, 10, 1983, 48-60 [female nudity in art and photography]

Chambers, Ross, "Pour une poétique du vêtement", in Floyd Gray, ed., Poétiques: Théories et critique littéraires, (Michigan Romance Studies), Ann Arbor, 1980, 18-46 [women's clothing]

Ciofi degli Atti, Fabio, Revolutionary Costume: Soviet Clothing and Textiles of the 1920s, Rizzoli, 1989

Collins, Michael, "Hawthorne's Use of Clothing in 'My Kinsman, Major Molineux'", Nathaniel Hawthorne Journal, 8, 1978, 171-2

Collins, Robert, "The Dismantling of Edna Pontellier: Garment Imagery in Kate Chopin's 'The Awakening', Southern Studies, 23, 2, 1984, 176-197

Colton, Judith, "From Voltaire to Buffon: Further Observations on Nudity, Heroic and Otherwise", in Moshe Barasch and Lucy Freeman Sandler, eds., Art the Ape of Nature: Studies in Honor of H. W. Janson, New York: Harry Abrams Inc., 1981, 531-548

Conboy, Sheila, "Fabric and Fabrication in Richardson's 'Pamela'," ELH, 54, Spring, 1987, 81-96

Conroy, P. V., "The Spectator's View of Women", Studies on Voltaire and the Eighteenth Century, 193, 1980, 1883-1890

Cunningham, Patricia, "The Theoretical Bases of William Hogarth's Depictions of Dress", Dress, 7, 1981, 53-68

Cunnington, C. Willet and Phillis Cunnington, The History of Underclothes, rev. ed., London, 1981

Davis, Shane Adler. "'Fine Cloths on the Altar': The Commodification of Late-Nineteenth-Century France." Art Journal 48 (1989): 85-89.

Davis, Shane Adler. "Rose Bonheur's 'Feminine Costume'." Antiques West July (1986):

DePaul, Frances Terese, "Costume as an Expression of Anglo-American Social Relations, 1900-1925", Ph.D., University of Pittsburgh, 1981

Dewhurst, C. K. "Pleiku Jackets, Tour Jackets, and Working Jackets: The Letter Sweaters of War." Journal of American Folklore 101 (1988): 48-55.

Dupuis, Danielle. 1985. "La Poésie de la toilette fémimine chez Balzac", L'Année Balzacienne, 5: 173-195.

Festa-McCormick, Diana, Emma Bovary's Masculinization: Convention of Clothes and Morality of Convention", Women and Literature, 1, 1980, 223-235

Festa-McCormick, Diana, The Proustian Optics of Clothes, Mirrors, Masks, Mores, Saratoga, 1984

Folley, T., "Clothes and the Man: An Aspect of Benito Pérez Galdos's Method of Literary Characterization", Bulletin of Hispanic Studies, 49, 1, 1972, 30-39

Fox-Genovese, Elisabeth, "Yves Saint Laurent's Peasant Revolution", Marxist Perspectives, 1, 2, 1978, 58-93

Gilbert, S. M., "Costumes of the Mind: Transvestitism in Modern Literature", Critical Inquiry 7, 2, 1979, 391-417

Gordon, B., "Fiber of Our Lives. Trends and Attitudes About Women's Textile Art as Reflected in the Literature in America, 1876-1976", Journal of Popular Culture, 10, Winter, 1976, 548-559

Hall, David J., "Plainness of Speech, Behaviour, and Apparel in Eighteenth-Century English Quakerism", 307-318 in W. J. Sheils, ed., Monks, Hermits, and thge Ascetic Tradition, London: Basil Blackwell, 1985

Higgins, I., "Swift and Sparta: The Nostalgia of 'Gulliver's Travel's", Modern Language Review, 78, 3, 1983, 513-531

Hilfer, Anthony C., "Philosophy of Clothes in Melville's Benito Cereno", Philological Quarterly, 61, 2, 1982, 220-226

Hoffmann-Koenige, E., "Russian Constructivist Clothing: Just Another Utopia?", 53-57 in K. Rubinger, ed., Russian Woman-Artists of the Avantgarde, 1910-1930,

Howard, Seymour. "William Blake: The Antique, Nudity and Nakedness. A Study in Idealism and Regression." Artibus et Historiae 6 (1982):

Husni, Khalii. 1984. "The Confidence-Man's Colourful-Colourless Masquerade: Melville's Theatre of the Absurd in 'Black and White'", Studia Anglica Posnaniensia, 17: 219-231.

Janson, H. W., "Observations on Nudity in Neoclassical Art", idem, Sixteen Studies, New York, 1974, 189-210

Jones, G. C., "Le thème du vêtement dans 'Le Rouge et le noire", Stendhal Club, 15, 57, 1972, 17-31

Kaminsky, Amy, "Dress and Redress: Clothing in the 'Desenga nos amorosa' of Maria de Zayas y Sotomayor," Romanic Review, 79, Mar. 1988, 377-391

Kamuf, Peggy, "The Gift of Clothes of Mme. de Lafayette and the Origin of Novels", Novel, 17, 3, 1984, 233-245

Kauvar, Elaine, "Swift's Clothing Philosophy in 'A Tale of a Tub' and Joyce's 'Grace'", James Joyce Quarterly, 5, 1968, 162-165

Kay, Carol, "Hawthorne's Use of Clothing in His Short Stories", Nathaniel Hawthorne Journal, 2, 1972, 245-249

Kleinert, A., "Ein modejournal des 19. Jahrhunderts und seine Leserin: 'La Corbeille' at 'Madame Bovary'", Romanische Forschungen, 90, 4, 1978, 458-477

Kleinert, A., "Le Dernière mode: Une tentative de Mallarmé dans la presse féminine", Lendemains, 5, 1980, 167-178

Kline, Ruth, "Domestic Servants on the New York and London Stages: 1880-1920, with an Emphasis on Costume", Ph.D., University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaigne, 1980

Koelb, C., "Thomas Mann's 'Coat of Many Colors'", German Quarterly, 49, 4, 1976, 472-484

Kultermann, Udo, "Gustav Klimt, Emilie Flöge und die Modereform in Wien um 1900", Alte und Moderne Kunst, 157, 22, 1977, 34-36

Kunzle, David, "Dress Reform as Antifeminism: A Reply to Helene E. Roberts's 'The Exquisite Slave...Victorian Woman'", Signs, 2, 3, 1977, 570-579

Labracherie, Pierre, "Le Grenier de l'histoire: La crinoline", Miroir de l'histoire, 107, 1958, 551-554 [decline of crinoline in late 1860's]

Lapov, Radmila, "Le vêtement dans l'oeuvre de Flaubert", Ph.D., University of Maryland, 1981

Laver, J. C., "The Battle of the Sexes: Fashion in Nineteenth-Century America", Journal of Popular Culture, 13, 4, 1980, 581-589

Lazard, Madeleine, "Le costume dans 'Jehan de Saintre': valeur sociale et symbolique", Studi Francesi, 26, 3, 1982, 457-464

Lechte, John, "Woman and the Veil - or Rousseau's Fictive Body", French Studies, XXXIX, 1985, 423-442

Lemire, Beverly, "The Theft of Clothes and Popular Consumerism in Early Modern England," Journal of Social History, 24, 2, 1990, 255-276

Levin, A., "Borrowed Plumage", Women's Studies, 12, 3, 1986, 297-313

Lipovetsky, Gilles, The Empire of Fashion: Dressing Modern Democracy, Princeton, 1994

MacDonald, Gerald, "Spanish Textile and Clothing Nomenclature in -an, -i and -in", Hispanic Review, 44, 1976, 57-78

Maingon, L. P. A.. 1985. "The Hercules Theme in the Poetry of Ausias March", Hispano 28, 3: 1-13. [transvestism]

Mandoff, Mark, "Gulliver Shifts for Himself", in Robert James Merrett, ed., Man and Nature, Edmonton, 1984, 47-62

Martin, Richard, "Dress and Dream: The Utopian Idealism of Clothing", Arts Magazine, Oct. 1987, 58-60 [Rousseau, etc.]

Maynard, Margaret, "A Dream of Fair Women: Revival Dress and the Formation of Late Victorian Images of Femininity," Art History, 12, Sept. 1989, 322-341

McCracken, Grant, "Textile History and the Consumer Epidemic: An Anthropological Approach to Popular Consumption and the Mass Market," Material History Bulletin, 31, 1990, 59-63

McCullagh, J., "Image to Collage", Arts Magazine, 60, (Dec.) 1985, 80-85; 60 (Jan.) 1986, 74-77

McDonald, Christi, "Robe", Stanford French Review, 8, 2-3, 1984, 167-174 [Diderot's clothing imagery from Plato]

Mehlman, F., "Fashion Pictures of the 20s and 30s", Antique Collector, 50, 8, 1979, 64-67 [influence of modern art]

Mews, S., "Der 'Hauptmann von Köpenick': Ein deutsches Märchen oder Kleider machen Leute", Germanic Notes, 3, 6, 1972, 42-48

Mighton, John, "Wyndham Lewis. Clothing as Metaphor", Ph.D., University of Alberta, 1975

Miner, Paul, "Visions in the Darksom Air," in Alvin Rosenfeld, ed., William Blake: Essays for S. Foster Damon, Providence: Brown University Press, 1969, 256-292 [weaving, looms, veils]

Miner, Paul, "William Blake's Divine Analogy," Criticism, 3, 1961, 46-61 [new garments, new person]

Olivier, G., "De la poutre aux yeux", Chroniques de l'art vivant, 46, 1974, 12-15 [cosmetics and painting]

Orton, Fred and Giselda Pollock, "Les données bretonnantes: la prairie de répresentation", Art History, 3, 3, 1980, 314-344 [appeal of peasant clothing to Post-Impressionists]

Paley, Morton, "The Figure of the Garment in 'The Four Zoas', Milton, and 'Jerusalem'", in Stuart Curran and Joseph Wittreich, eds., Blake's Sublime Allegory, Madison, 1973, 119-139

Paoletti, J. T., "Mary Kelly's Interim", Arts Magazine, 60, (Oct) 1985, 88-91

Peterson, S. "Translating Experience and the Reading of a Story Cloth." Journal of American Folklore 101 (1988): 6-22.

Piquet, F., "Le Tragique et la différence: Blake et le problème de incarnation", Etudes anglaises, 36, 1, 1983, 24-33

Price, F. and C. Neve, "Cut on the Bias: Art in Fashion 1900-1939", Country Life, 159, 1 Apr. 1976, 804-805

Rabaté, J.-M., "Alimentaire et vestimentaire dans 'Finnegan's Wake'", Etudes anglaises, 35, 3, 1982, 268-279

Rea, Joanne, "Cloak Imagery in 'Jane Eyre'," English Language Notes, 25, 1, 1987, 53-59.

Rimbault, C., "La presse féminine de langue française au XVIIIe siècle. Place de la femme système de la mode", Ph.D., Ecole des hautes études en sciences sociales, Paris, 1981

Roberts, Helene E., "The Exquisite Slave: the Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman", Signs, 2, 3, 1977, 554-569 [for reply, see Kunzle]

Robinson, Fred Miller, The Man in the Bowler Hat: His History and Iconography, Chapel Hill: UNCP, 1992-3?

Robinson, P. "Virginia's Fatal Modesty", British Journal of Eighteenth-Century Studies, 5, 1982, 35-48 (Saint-Pierre]

Rogers, Edith, "Clothing as a Multifarious Ballad Symbol", Western Folklore, 34, 1975, 261-297

Rosasco, Joan, "Le Texte et sa doublure", in John Erickson and Irène Pagès, eds., Proust et le texte producteur, Guelph, 1980, 93-113 [clothing and characterization of women]

Roth, Franz Otto, "Mode, Tracht, und Sitte in Sudkarnten Anno 1775", Blätter fur Heimatkunde, 50, 2, 1976, 93-98 [Empress Teresa's laws against immoral folk clothing]

Schoenfeld, Jean Snitzer, "Role des vêtements feminins et de la mode dans 'La Recherche'", Bulletin de la société des amis de Marcel Proust et de Combray, 27, 1977, 490-492

Sena, J. F., "The Wide Circumference Around: The Context of Belinda's Petticoat in 'The Rape of the Lock'", Papers in Language and Literature, 16, 3, 1980, 260-267

Silverman, Debora, Selling Culture, New York?, 1985 CHECK DATE

Sirois, A., "Costume, maquillage et bijoux dans 'Bonheur d'Occasion'", Présence francophone, 18, 1979, 159-163 [Canadian literature]

Soupel, Serge, "Esquisse d'une semiologie du vêtement dans le roman de 1740 à 1771", Bulletin de la société d'études anglo-americaines des XVIIe et XVIIIe siècles, 12, 1981, 61-79

Spendel, G., "Il mantello del Principe Myskin", Acme, 31, 2, 1978, 201-205 [Doystoyevsky]

Squire, G., Dress, Art, and Society 1560-1970, London: Srudio Vista, 1974

Stambaugh, S., "Imagery of Entrapment in the Fiction of Isak Dinesen", Scandinavica, 22, 2, 1983, 171-193

Staves, S., "A Few Kind Words for the Fop", Studies in English Literature, 22, 3, 1982, 413-428

Steele, Valerie, Fashion and Eroticism. Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the Victorian Era to the Jazz Age, New York, 1985

Storr, Robert, "Unmaking History at the Costume Institute," Art in America, Feb. 1987, 15-24 [review of Debora Silverman, Selling Culture: Nancy Reagan, Diana Vreeland, Bloomingdale's and the Met, 1986]

Suozzo, A. G., "Disguise and the Rites of Death and Resurrection in Sorel's Fiction", French Review, 53, 1, 1979, 23-28

Sy, P., "L'importance de la toilette chez les héros stendhalien", Stendhal Club, 50, 1971, 127-137

Syring, M. L., "Künstler und Mode 1910-1925", Du 446, 38, 1978, 46-49 [Bakst, Erté, S. Delaunay]

Tal, A., "Vêtements et masques des personnages juifs chez Albert Cohen", Yod. Revue des études hébraïques et juives modernes, 7, 1981, 69-76

Ungaro de Fox, Lucia, "Era of the Dandy", Americas, 21, 5, 1969, 29-33 [from Spain to Latin America, 17-18th c.]

Vanier, Henriette, "Etiquettes et elegances au temps de Madame de Pompadour", Miroir de l'histoire, 91, 1957, 85-91Vanier, Henriette, "Le mode sou le consulat et l'empire", Miroir de l'histoire, 98, 1958, 204-209 [Oriental fashion after Napoleon's Egyptian campaign]

Valverde, Mariana, "The Love of Finery: Fashion and the Fallen Woman in Nineteenth-century Social Discourse," Victorian Studies, 32, 1989, 169-188

Walkley, Christina, "'Nor iron bars a cage': The Victorian Crinoline and Its Caricaturists", History Today, 25, 10, 1975, 712-718

Weisenberger, S., "Style in 'Wise Blood'", Genre, 16, 1, 1983, 75-97 [Flannery O'Connor]

Whittaker, S., "Joyce's Umbrella: The Pattern of Created Things", Studies in the Novel, 18, 1986, 36-50

Wilhelm, Albert, "The Clothing Motif in Updike's 'Rabbit, Run'", South Atlantic Bulletin, 40, 4, 1975, 87-89

Winston, K., "The Unbuttoned Nightgown of Anna Schramm: Dress and Undress in the Plays of Odön von Horváth", Modern Austrian Literature, 11, 2, 1978, 53-72

Woestelandt, Evelyne, "Système de la mode dans 'L'Education sentimentale'", French Review, 58, 2, 1984, 244-254

Wolfson, Susan, "'Their she condition': Cross-dressing and the Politics of Gender in 'Don Juan'", English Literay History, 54, 3, 1987, 585-618 [Byron]



SUMPTUARY LEGISLATION

Baldwin, F. E., Sumptuary Legislation and Personal Regulation in England, Baltimore: Johns Hopkins, 1926

Bistort, G., Il Magistrato alle Pompe nella Repubblica di Venezia, Venice, 1912

Blanc, Odile, "Le luxe, le vêtement et la mode à la fin du Moyen Age", Bulletin du centre d'histoire économique et sociale de la région lyonnaise, 4, 1983, 23-44

Eisenbart, L. C., Die Kleiderordnungen der deutschen Städte zwischen 1350 und 1700, Göttingen, 1962

Giraudias, Etienne, Etude historique sur les lois somptuaires, Poitiers, 1910

Greenfield, Kent Roberts, Sumptuary Law in Nürnberg, Baltimore, 1918

Hampel-Kallbrunner, G., Beiträge zur Geschichte der Kleiderordnungen, Vienna, 1962

Hughes, Diane Owen, "Sumptuary Law and Social Relations in Renaissance Italy", in John Bossy, ed., Disputes and Settlements, Cambridge, 1983, 69-99

Kantorowicz, Hermann and N. Denholm-Young, "'De Ornatu Mulierum': A Consilium of Antonius de Rosellis with an Introduction on Fifteenth-Century Sumptuary Legislation", in Helmut Coing and Gerhard Immel, eds., Rechtshistorie Schriften von Dr. Hermann Kantorowicz, Karlsruhe, 1970,

Kraemer, Pierre, Le luxe et les lois somptuaires au moyen âge, Paris, 1920

Mazzi, Curzio, "Alcune leggi suntuarie senesi del XIII", Archivio storico italiano, ser. 4, V, 1880, 133-144

Newett, Margaret M., "The Sumptuary Laws of Venice in the Fourteenth and Fifteenth Centuries", in T. F. Tout and James Tait, eds., Historical Essays by Members of the Owen's College, Manchester, London, 1902,

Rainey, Ronald, "Sumptuary Law in Renaissance Florence", Ph.D., Columbia University, 1985

Sinemus, Volker, "Stilordnung, Kleiderordnung und Gesellschaftsordnung im 17. Jahrhundert", in Albrecht Schöne, ed., Stadt-Schule-Universität-Buchwesen und die deutsche Literatur im 17. Jahrhundert, Munich, 1974, 22-43

Verga, Ettore, "Le leggi suntarie e la decadenza dell'industria in Milano, 1565-1750", Archivio storico lombardo, XXVII, 1900, 53-55

Vincent, John Martin, Costume and Conduct in the Laws of Basel, Bern, and Zurich, 1370-1800, Baltimore, 1935
OTHER MATERIAL

Newton, Stella Mary, "Fashions in Fashion History", The Times Literary Supplement 21 March 1975, 305ff



Wilson, Elizabeth, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity, London: Virago Press, 1985 (rev. in Art History10, 2, 1987, 272-285


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